Amber perfumes are typically based on the traditional accord of labdanum and vanilla and evoke the warm, rich warmth of resins, balsams, and spices. They can be exotic and spicy with flowery notes, or they can enter "Gourmande" territory with edible notes of chocolate and gastronomic accords. They are frequently regarded as evening or winter smells and are warm, rich, and sensual. The majority of contemporary renditions of the classic amber fragrance are based on one of two main types. The first is predicated on the connection between bergamot, coumarin, vanillin (or the much stronger ethyl vanillin), and civet. It is referred to as the "Ambreine" harmony and is featured in the Shalimar perfume by Guerlain from 1925. This class of ambers is the least flowery of all fragrances and is built around a tiny.
These ambers are the least floral of all scents and have a modest quantity of rose at their core. Calvin Klein's Obsession and Editions de Frederic Malle's more current Musc Ravageur are two contemporary scents that pay more than a passing tribute to Shalimar.
The second starting point for an amber lineage is the “Mellis” accord from which Opium by YSL and Youth Dew by Estee Lauder stem. The Mellis accord is based on the relationship between benzyl salicylate and eugenol which gives the impression of clove or carnation (as seen in the floral L’air du Temps) along with patchouli, lily of the valley in the form of hydroxycitronellal and coumarin. Balsamic notes are added along with woods and spices. This type of fragrance can be classified as spicy amber.
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